Brows are sisters not twins

Brows are Sisters not Twins

Yes, brows are sisters, not twins.  That said, finding or creating symmetry for a client’s brows is one of the most important design aspects of the brow.  Sometimes this is more than challenging – most often because naturally our faces from one side to the other are not symmetrical.  Our orbital bone structure that surrounds our eye is shaped differently on each side.  Typically, one side displays front and wide and the other short and curved back. Basically one side is more flat and the other is more curved.  When this occurs, drawing brows that are exactly the same (using measurements and stencils) appear forced and unnatural.   

As artists, we try to work with your personal bone structure to create the best brow symmetry possible.  I like to do this by analyzing the brow in pieces – is the front shape of the brow the same and appear in toward the nose at the same distance and direction?  Are the arches level?  Is the angle of the brow tails the same?  Are the brows the same thickness?  Has the client received Botox or other neurotoxin in the last four months? Once the individual parts of the brow are analyzed, step back and view the face as a whole.  Is there anything that stands out?  Is the overall appearance pleasing?

Frankly, we are our own worst critics.  And while we may stand in the mirror and scrutinize our brows for – well, a very long time – no one else is doing that.  They are looking at your overall appearance.  The brows frame your eyes and bring out one of the best features we have – the window to our soul.  Your brows are only the enhancing frame.  The beauty comes from you.

Melisa Ferriola, LE, CPCP

Shanan Zickefoose, BSN, RN, CMM, CPCP

Can my microblading be corrected

We often receive requests to correct microblading. Many consumers have watched YouTube videos of microblading eyebrows or have found them on Facebook or Instagram and fell in love with what they saw. How many of those videos and pictures have you seen that are actually healed work? Few. Why?  Because most of the microbladed eyebrows end up looking gray or blue in the skin and often, the brows end up with scars from the blades.

Most of the technicians that jumped into this industry in the last four years wanting to become microbladers are now seeking additional training to learn powder and ombre brows because their clients are unhappy with their long-term results. Ombre brows will be the next thing clients want fixed because in the end, no one really wants 8/10ths of a brow. Ombre is also beautiful in the immediately after photo, but in six months, clients are wanting more color in that bulb.

 “Can you do anything for eyebrows that are gray or blue?”

Our answer is you are never without hope, but the process may be lengthy. You will need to schedule a consultation or email quality photos of your brows in good lighting before a treatment plan can be determined. The options for the brows will either involve a series of saline based removal treatments, laser treatments, or color correction with a powder brow.

“Can you do anything for my microbladed scars?”

Yes, as a registered nurse, Shanan can perform a series of medical microneedling sessions to rebuild the scaffolding of collagen and elastin thus reducing scar tissue.

“Why is my microblading now orange and can it be corrected?”

Most pigments were manufactured for a powder brow in mind. Because microblading and hairstrokes often heal very cool, the colors needed to be modified using a little bit of warmth in the color blend in attempt to prevent the strokes from healing gray or blue. As the color aged out, the warm color was the color left in the skin. This can be color corrected.

“Why have my strokes blurred?”

There is no way to prevent this from happening. They will always blur over time. Look at your grandfather’s tattoo….the lines are no longer crisp. The same will happen with microblading and hairstrokes, usually within a few months they will begin to lose their crispness. The best option for you at this point is a beautiful soft powder brow.  

Most of the technicians that jumped into this industry in the last few years (since 2015) were drawn in wanting to become microbladers are now seeking additional training to learn powder and ombre brows because their microbladed clients are unhappy with their long-term results. Ombre brows will be the next thing clients will want fixed because in the end, no one will want 8/10ths of a brow. Ombre is beautiful in the immediate after photo, but in three to six months, clients are going to ask for more color in that bulb.

Moving forward, most clients will be good candidates for revision work that may include lightening sessions, color modification, or powder filled style brows. Please contact our office for more information

What is SofTap®?

First and foremost, SofTap® is a brand.  The company, located in Livermore, CA, is dedicated to supplying needles, pigments and miscellaneous accessories to permanent cosmetic technicians that use a manual hand tool method.  Since their beginnings in 1988, their needle configurations have become synonymous with the hand tool.  SofTap® is hand tool, but not all hand tool technicians use SofTap® needles.  But it is safe to say that the SofTap® needs are the most widely used hand tool needles.  All needles are delivered sealed, sterilized casings and you can be assured of your personal safety when the technician is combining these safe tools with the proper universal precautions safety standards.

Many hand tool technicians use other pigment lines than the SofTap® brand.  Be sure to understand the difference between th hand tool technician that uses the SofTap® needles and one that uses, trains and supports to entire brand.  Be sure your consultation includes answers to method, pigments and actual client results.

Why the hand tool method?  The modality used by a technician is very subjective.  The modalities for tattooing are numerous and vary quite widely.  Each technician, as in any profession, has their own preference.  There are advantages and disadvantages that can be lined up for every machine and tool on the market.  But most importantly, the best tool is the one your technician is most experienced with.

Permanent cosmetics is an art.  Skin is a living canvas.  The nuances to this art are extreme.

It is more important for the consumer to be focused on the technician's training and continuing education, their safety standards, and their demonstrated client results.

Should I get bottom Eyeliner?

We hear this question quite often.  Many glamour magazines with articles on conventional makeup insist that women over the age of 50 should not get bottom eyeliner.  Hogwash.

One of the reasons this is touted is “It will close your eyes and make them look smaller.”  In our experience, this simply is not true.  Eyeliner wrapped all the way around the eye will close it in, but a subtle bottom eyeliner can give your eye dimension and shape – making it look larger and defined.

That said, it is not often we would recommend bottom eyeliner only.  This will emphasize the bottom curve of the eye and in some cases weigh it down.  That isn’t usually a look we are trying to achieve.  Most of the time, we will advise that a thin lash line enhancement be done as well to provide balance.  However, if you have heavy upper lids and the upper lash line is not visible, then electing for the bottom only will save you a little money and may be all you need to shape your eye.

“Bottom Line” is that everyone is different.  Talk with your professional to discuss options, your particular eye shape and your desired look.  Think about what works for you.

Melisa Ferriola, LE, CPCP

Shanan Zickefoose, BSN, RN, CMM, CPCP

Understanding Microblading

Recently, the demand for permanent cosmetic hairline strokes has increased. Many estheticians and lash artists are rushing to train in this advanced permanent cosmetic specialty and many are taking 1-2 day training courses from inexperienced people with no understanding or fundamental training regarding permanent cosmetics. They are being poorly trained and ill advised with regards to what microblading is. Many are being taught that it is using a 'blade' which is misleading using medical terminology, instead of proper tattoo terminology. They are also being taught it is semi-permanent and is only placed in the epidermis. The truth is, it is placed in the dermal layer where the color will not flake off in the next 60-90 days. A two day class cannot teach color theory in its entirety to provide appropriate knowledge to prevent the client's eyebrows from turning too cool or too warm. They are not adequately educating the students how to avoid scaring their clients. It is very dangerous to see what is happening to this industry. 

Fortunately, Oklahoma is better protected with our laws regarding any permanent cosmetic procedure. We are required to train for 300 hours in Oklahoma and pass certification exams prior to obtaining licensure. Due to the different laws around the country, many other states are experiencing vast problems with people taking 1-2 day training and then a few months later training others.  I simply cannot imagine how someone would be so unethical, but I suppose my standards are different. 

As of February 21, 2016, there is ongoing discussion on message forums regarding how newly trained technicans, as recent as October and November, 2015 are now offering training. They are using words such as tattooing into the muscle. What a great travesty to an idustry that is well established. Unfortunately, these new technicians are simply focused on making a lot of fast money and they have even sought out opportunities to be featured on shows such as "The Doctors".  I assure you, if this segment airs as we professionals are concerned about, we will do our best to properly educate the public. We cannot support false information that aims to hurt our professional industry. We will not drop our standards. 

Any permanent makeup trainer should have a minimum of four to five years of active experience in this field. Microstroking, the appropriate term, should only be performed by a technician with advanced skill. A technician with experience will understand color theory, color modification, color correction, and have skills to lighten pigment. Clients need to have access to all of these skills by a qualified technician, otherwise, they should be prepared to find a technician that can provide correction. Correcting permanent cosmetics can be very costly and time consuming. It is never a simple fix, you must be prepared for several procedures spaced months apart. 

One reason I am so thankful for the Society of Permanent Cosmetic Professionals is they provide ethical standards for our industry.  They have taken notice to the 'microblading' trend and have produced a fact sheet to better educate the public.   Shanan Zickefoose, BSN, RN, CMM, CPCP