Questions? Feel free to e-mail me directly at tat2makeup@gmail.com!

 

Shanan is on
the 
cutting edge 
of cosmetics:  

Permanent Eyebrows

Microblading Eyebrows

Permanent Lipcolor

Permanent Eyeliner

National Provider for Areola Tattooing

Microneedling

Scar Revision

Scar Camoflauge

Permanent Makeup Removal & Lightening

Permanent Makeup Correction

Botulinum Toxin (Dysport/Botox)

Juvederm Ultra XC

Shanan Zickefoose, BSN, RN, CMM, CPCP 

Published Author, Principles of Infection Control for the Tattoo Industry

(918) 724-5614
tat2makeup@gmail.com
4870 South Lewis Ave, Ste. 130
Tulsa, OK 74105                                                                                                                                  

Registered Nurse

Member of Society of Permanent Cosmetic Professionals (SPCP)

2011-2013 Board of Directors of SPCP

Certified Permanent Cosmetic Professional (CPCP)

Oklahoma State approved Instructor for Cosmetic Tattooing 

 

 

 
 

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Tuesday
Nov272018

Can my microblading be corrected

We often receive requests to correct microblading. Many consumers have watched YouTube videos of microblading eyebrows or have found them on Facebook or Instagram and fell in love with what they saw. How many of those videos and pictures have you seen that are actually healed work? Few. Why?  Because most of the microbladed eyebrows end up looking gray or blue in the skin and often, the brows end up with scars from the blades.

Most of the technicians that jumped into this industry in the last four years wanting to become microbladers are now seeking additional training to learn powder and ombre brows because their clients are unhappy with their long-term results. Ombre brows will be the next thing clients want fixed because in the end, no one really wants 8/10ths of a brow. Ombre is also beautiful in the immediately after photo, but in six months, clients are wanting more color in that bulb.

 “Can you do anything for eyebrows that are gray or blue?”

Our answer is you are never without hope, but the process may be lengthy. You will need to schedule a consultation or email quality photos of your brows in good lighting before a treatment plan can be determined. The options for the brows will either involve a series of saline based removal treatments, laser treatments, or color correction with a powder brow.

“Can you do anything for my microbladed scars?”

Yes, as a registered nurse, Shanan can perform a series of medical microneedling sessions to rebuild the scaffolding of collagen and elastin thus reducing scar tissue.

“Why is my microblading now orange and can it be corrected?”

Most pigments were manufactured for a powder brow in mind. Because microblading and hairstrokes often heal very cool, the colors needed to be modified using a little bit of warmth in the color blend in attempt to prevent the strokes from healing gray or blue. As the color aged out, the warm color was the color left in the skin. This can be color corrected.

“Why have my strokes blurred?”

There is no way to prevent this from happening. They will always blur over time. Look at your grandfather’s tattoo….the lines are no longer crisp. The same will happen with microblading and hairstrokes, usually within a few months they will begin to lose their crispness. The best option for you at this point is a beautiful soft powder brow.  

Tuesday
Jun142016

What is SofTap┬«?

First and foremost, SofTap® is a brand.  The company, located in Livermore, CA, is dedicated to supplying needles, pigments and miscellaneous accessories to permanent cosmetic technicians that use a manual hand tool method.  Since their beginnings in 1988, their needle configurations have become synonymous with the hand tool.  SofTap® is hand tool, but not all hand tool technicians use SofTap® needles.  But it is safe to say that the SofTap® needs are the most widely used hand tool needles.  All needles are delivered sealed, sterilized casings and you can be assured of your personal safety when the technician is combining these safe tools with the proper universal precautions safety standards.

Many hand tool technicians use other pigment lines than the SofTap® brand.  Be sure to understand the difference between th hand tool technician that uses the SofTap® needles and one that uses, trains and supports to entire brand.  Be sure your consultation includes answers to method, pigments and actual client results.

 

Why the hand tool method?  The modality used by a technician is very subjective.  The modalities for tattooing are numerous and vary quite widely.  Each technician, as in any profession, has their own preference.  There are advantages and disadvantages that can be lined up for every machine and tool on the market.  But most importantly, the best tool is the one your technician is most experienced with.

Permanent cosmetics is an art.  Skin is a living canvas.  The nuances to this art are extreme.

It is more important for the consumer to be focused on the technician's training and continuing education, their safety standards, and their demonstrated client results.

Tuesday
Jun142016

Should I get bottom Eyeliner?

We hear this question quite often.  Many glamour magazines with articles on conventional makeup insist that women over the age of 50 should not get bottom eyeliner.  Hogwash.

One of the reasons this is touted is “It will close your eyes and make them look smaller.”  In our experience, this simply is not true.  Eyeliner wrapped all the way around the eye will close it in, but a subtle bottom eyeliner can give your eye dimension and shape – making it look larger and defined.

That said, it is not often we would recommend bottom eyeliner only.  This will emphasize the bottom curve of the eye and in some cases weigh it down.  That isn’t usually a look we are trying to achieve.  Most of the time, we will advise that a thin lash line enhancement be done as well to provide balance.  However, if you have heavy upper lids and the upper lash line is not visible, then electing for the bottom only will save you a little money and may be all you need to shape your eye.

“Bottom Line” is that everyone is different.  Talk with your professional to discuss options, your particular eye shape and your desired look.  Think about what works for you.

Melisa Ferriola, LE, CPCP

Shanan Zickefoose, BSN, RN, CMM, CPCP

Sunday
Feb212016

Understanding Microblading

Recently, the demand for permanent cosmetic hairline strokes has increased. Many estheticians and lash artists are rushing to train in this advanced permanent cosmetic specialty and many are taking 1-2 day training courses from inexperienced people with no understanding or fundamental training regarding permanent cosmetics. They are being poorly trained and ill advised with regards to what microblading is. Many are being taught that it is using a 'blade' which is misleading using medical terminology, instead of proper tattoo terminology. They are also being taught it is semi-permanent and is only placed in the epidermis. The truth is, it is placed in the dermal layer where the color will not flake off in the next 60-90 days. A two day class cannot teach color theory in its entirety to provide appropriate knowledge to prevent the client's eyebrows from turning too cool or too warm. They are not adequately educating the students how to avoid scaring their clients. It is very dangerous to see what is happening to this industry. 

Fortunately, Oklahoma is better protected with our laws regarding any permanent cosmetic procedure. We are required to train for 300 hours in Oklahoma and pass certification exams prior to obtaining licensure. Due to the different laws around the country, many other states are experiencing vast problems with people taking 1-2 day training and then a few months later training others.  I simply cannot imagine how someone would be so unethical, but I suppose my standards are different. 

As of February 21, 2016, there is ongoing discussion on message forums regarding how newly trained technicans, as recent as October and November, 2015 are now offering training. They are using words such as tattooing into the muscle. What a great travesty to an idustry that is well established. Unfortunately, these new technicians are simply focused on making a lot of fast money and they have even sought out opportunities to be featured on shows such as "The Doctors".  I assure you, if this segment airs as we professionals are concerned about, we will do our best to properly educate the public. We cannot support false information that aims to hurt our professional industry. We will not drop our standards. 

Any permanent makeup trainer should have a minimum of four to five years of active experience in this field. Microstroking, the appropriate term, should only be performed by a technician with advanced skill. A technician with experience will understand color theory, color modification, color correction, and have skills to lighten pigment. Clients need to have access to all of these skills by a qualified technician, otherwise, they should be prepared to find a technician that can provide correction. Correcting permanent cosmetics can be very costly and time consuming. It is never a simple fix, you must be prepared for several procedures spaced months apart. 

One reason I am so thankful for the Society of Permanent Cosmetic Professionals is they provide ethical standards for our industry.  They have taken notice to the 'microblading' trend and have produced a fact sheet to better educate the public.   Shanan Zickefoose, BSN, RN, CMM, CPCP 


Tuesday
Nov102015

What happens to the pigment when it is implanted in the skin? 

When researching for an article I was writing for the the permanent cosmetic industry, I found an article that was quite interesting. It is written for the medical community related to a specific area of cosmetic tattooing, but the basis of what happens to the pigment after it is implanted in the skin.

Unlike many works of art, I work on a living canvas. It changes constantly. Your body is constantly working with the pigment I implant. Please read this very interesting description.  All photos have been removed from the content. 

Excerpt from: 

Scalp Micropigmentation A Concealer for Hair and Scalp Deformities

WILLIAM R. RASSMAN, MD; a JAE P. PAK, MD; b JINO KIM, MD; c NORMAN F. ESTRIN, PhD

PHYSIOLOGY AND HISTOLOGY OF PIGMENTS IN THE SKIN

"Once the pigment is placed into the scalp, the amount of pigment that remains over the first few days reflects the quantity and depth of placement. The epidermis ranges in thickness between 0.5 to 1.5mm. Both the stratum corneum and stratum granulosum, constitute the primary barriers for the protection of the skin. The largest layer in the epidermis is the stratum spinosum, and this area fills with pigment in the track created by the needle(s). The deepest layer of the epidermis is the stratum basale, a row of columnar cells resting on the basal lamina that separates the epidermis. Redness which appears on day of procedure and disappears in 1 to 2 days. These cells are mitotically active and they migrate upward toward the surface. The authors try to limit the depth of the needle(s) to the upper dermis. Significant amounts of pigment may be found in the basal cell layer immediately after the process is done. Pigment particles are found within the cytoplasm of both keratinocytes and phagocytic cells, including fibroblasts, macrophages, and mast cells. At one month, the basement membrane is reforming, and aggregates of pigment particles that are present within the stratum basale are starting to disappear, as these cells migrate upward toward the surface. In the dermis, phagocytic cells that contain pigment may concentrate along the epidermal-dermal border below a layer of granulation tissue that is closely surrounded by collagen. The cells of the stratum granulosum and the stratum spinosum contain particles of pigment, as they migrate upward. eventually, all of the pigments found in the epidermis will be pushed upward with the exfoliation of the stratum corneum. The only pigment that will remain will be the pigment originally placed in the dermis. This represents a satisfactory outcome. The portion of ink that washes away on the patient’s first hair wash (2–3 days) reflects the pigment on the surface of the scalp or from the needle track within the stratum corneum and stratum granulosum. With the normal stratum corneum turnover of ~27 days, it is likely that the pigment remains below the stratum corneum in the lower layers of the epidermis for a few months. How much of the pigment remains in the stratum basale and how long it stays there probably varies in different people, especially those with skin diseases that impact skin cycling. eventually, all of the epidermis becomes free of pigments. The depth of the stratum basale from the surface of the skin varies significantly along the skin, millimeter by millimeter, reflecting an undulating depth of the epidermis at the dermal border. This makes the depth control by an operator who manually controls the needle by the feel of the resistance a very difficult skill that takes considerable experience. The needles are worked into the superficial dermis and this is the portion of the pigment that remains long term. Black pigment granules vary in diameter from 0.5 to 4.0μm. At one month, transepidermal elimination of ink particles through the upward movement of cells in the stratum spinosum is still in process with ink particles present in keratinocytes, macrophages, and fibroblasts. This is what causes changes in the appearance the patient sees in the first few weeks/months. Touch-ups are an important part of the service in follow-up for these patients, as the initial uniformity in appearance, after the first procedure, changes. An active foreign body reaction is induced by the pigment and the speed of the reaction varies with individuals; the quality and quantity of pigments used; and the local anatomy, physiology, and pathology of the scalp. In biopsy specimens reported at two to three months and at 40 years after tattooing, ink particles are no longer found in the epidermis, but they are found in dermal fibroblasts, predominantly in a perivascular location beneath a layer of fibrosis that replaced the granulation tissue. Tattoo pigments are found both intracellularly and extracellularly, with mild fibrosis and occasional foreign-body giant cell reactions. Pigment particles are initially dispersed diffusely as fine granules in the upper dermis, as well as in the epidermis in the tract at the point of the injection. The ink particles normally aggregate to a more focal location in the upper dermis from Days 7 to 13.10,11 Some of the soluble components of the pigment may be absorbed initially and taken away by the lymphatic system, while the insoluble components are incorporated with the connective tissue that surrounds each of the fibroblasts containing ink particles. The changes that can often be seen in these early days after the process has taken place include washing out of the surface epidermal pigments and extravasation (bleeding) of the dermal pigment beyond the area it was placed. The experienced operator has to balance what is seen at the surface at the time the first procedure is performed with an anticipated loss of some of the more superficial epidermal pigments after a number of days pass. With the stratum corneum penetrated, some leakage of pigments can be seen in the first couple of days after the procedure is performed. Since the pigment in the dermis is not initially stable under the body’s foreign body reaction, some pigments may be absorbed or change color over time.12 exposure to ultraviolet light can accelerate changes in color. The authors have seen an almost complete loss of pigment within a few weeks of the initial treatment at one extreme, which might reflect a needle insertion that was too superficial. Considerable extravasation (a bleeding amalgam) of the pigment outside the areas where it was placed in the dermis could also negatively impact the visual aesthetic process as early as in the first week.'

Reference:

RASSMAN, W. R., PAK, J. P., KIM, J., & ESTRIN, N. F. (2015). Scalp Micropigmentation. Journal Of Clinical & Aesthetic Dermatology8(3), 35-42.